For a PUSH linkage
Port 4 on the solenoid goes to the port on the cylinder closest to the injector
end.
Port 2 on the solenoid goes to the rear port closest to the throttle cable or rod.
Port 1 goes to the regulator.
Wiring:
There are 2 wires on the solenoid coil. One wire goes to a GOOD ground.
Doesn't matter which one. When used as a starting line control plug the other
wire into your transbrake activation circuit.
NEVER wire this solenoid to your transbrake and timers at the same time. This
could result in your transbrake being activated by your timer. Trans would lock
up and you lose control. Naturally, test all the circuits before going live.
Setting the linkage for a specific staging RPM.
There are 2 ways to do this.
Note: The engine will be loaded against the brake during setup so care must
be taken not to overheat things. Bear this in mind.
Version 1
Takes more time but 1 person can do it and transmission/convertor heat is
reduced.
1: Turn off the air bottle and remove one of the lines to let the air escape.
Reinstall the air line.
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Air Plumbing:
For a standard PULL linkage:
Port 2 on the solenoid goes to the port on the cylinder closest to the injector end.
Port 4 on the solenoid goes to the rear port closest to the throttle cable or rod.
Port 1 goes to the regulator.
Click on pictures for a full view
3: Move the backup clamp up and use feeler gauges to a set distance
between the 2 clamps. A distance to try, for instance, would be .040.
Lock the backup collar.
4: Unlock and move the primary collar down to meet the backup collar. The
control is now set to open the butterflies the distance you set between the
collars.
5: Fire the car, activate the transbrake/controller circuit, put your foot on the
floor and watch the Tach. You can sneak up on it until you get used to it. Note
the rpm and shut the car down.
6: Shut off and cool down the engine and trans as needed.
If the desired launch rpm is too low, move the collar some more. Too high,
reduce the distance.
Notes:
1: You can pretest the system by pushing the red button on the black end of
the solenoid to see if it does what you expect.
2:There is no set distance to work from because return spring pressure and
rpm load on the car will be different in each case.
3: Make a note of your final spacing for future use. Dial calipers could be used
in place of feeler gauges.
2: With the throttle closed, move the closest
round clamp to the injector up against the
cross bar. This clamp will be idle speed control.
Leave the backup clamp loose and out of the
way.